Looking up from a kitchen to a walk-on glass rooflight in the terrace above

Walk-on rooflight installation in Cambridge, light through the floor above

A walk-on rooflight is a skylight you can stand on: flush structural glass in a terrace, courtyard or path. We plan where its light will land in the room below, specify the load and finish, then fit it to current Building Regulations.

  • Structural glass sized for foot traffic
  • Slip-resistant finish where needed
  • Set flush with the terrace or roof
  • Building Control notification handled

Where the light lands through the day

Plan of a room from above showing the opening and where sunlight falls at 9:00, 13:00 and 17:00.
9:00
Morning: light down into the room below
13:00
Midday: a bright panel on the floor
17:00
Evening: soft light from above

What is included

  • Light survey and written light plan
  • Structural opening formed
  • Walk-on unit supplied and fitted
  • Weathered and made watertight
  • Ceiling reveal made good
  • 10-year workmanship guarantee

Where walk-on glass earns its place

A walk-on rooflight is a pane of structural glass laid into a surface people stand on: a roof terrace, a courtyard, a garden path or the floor of a first-floor extension. It lets daylight fall straight down into a room that has nothing but that surface above it.

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The rooms that need it are easy to recognise once you look for them. A kitchen extension on a Victorian terrace in Romsey or Petersfield often carries a flat roof that the owners want to use as a small terrace off the back bedroom. Put an ordinary flat skylight in that roof and you lose part of the terrace, because nobody can step on it and it needs space around it. Put a walk-on unit there and the terrace stays whole, with a bright panel set into it that throws light onto the worktop underneath.

The second case is the room below ground. Basement conversions under larger Victorian and Edwardian houses in Newnham or De Freville Avenue, and lower-ground rooms in some new homes, have a front or rear lightwell and little else. A walk-on panel in the ground above extends the lightwell's reach without a railing or a raised kerb in the middle of the garden. Our guide to walk-on glass over basements covers the lightwell detail.

The third is the courtyard or side passage. Many terraces have a narrow side return that was built over to make a bigger kitchen, and the path that used to run along it now sits on top of the extension roof or has vanished. A strip of walk-on glass laid along that line keeps a path to the garden and puts light into the deepest part of the kitchen. We cover layouts like this in walk-on glass in courtyards and gardens.

Places where walk-on glass is the right call:

  • Roof terraces over a kitchen, bathroom or stairwell, where the glass must sit level with decking or paving. See walk-on rooflights for roof terraces.
  • Basement lightwells and front areas, where a larger opening would need guarding or would block access.
  • Courtyards and paths laid over a single-storey extension.
  • Internal floors, such as a landing over a double-height hall, where the glass acts as a floor panel rather than a roof. The difference is explained in is walk-on glass the same as a glass floor?

If nobody will ever walk across the roof, an ordinary flat unit usually does the job for less weight and less structure. Our comparison of walk-on vs standard flat rooflights sets out the trade, and our flat roof rooflight installation page covers the non-walkable option in full. The short test we apply at the survey: if the roof is, or will become, somewhere a person stands, a chair gets dragged or a ladder gets rested, the glass has to be designed as floor.

Loads, layers and the thickness of the glass

A walk-on rooflight is designed like a small floor. It has to carry people spread across it and a heavy point load such as a table leg or a heel, and it has to keep doing that even if one of its layers breaks.

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For domestic floors, the loading figures most walk-on units are designed to are a uniformly distributed load of 1.5 kN/m² and a concentrated load of 2.0 kN, which come from the UK National Annex to the Eurocode for actions on structures. Older units were sometimes rated only to the concentrated load from the withdrawn BS 6399, and a unit carrying just that older figure is worth questioning for any new job. A roof terrace or balcony can call for higher figures than a room floor, and the structural engineer confirms which apply. Our guide to walk-on rooflight load ratings explains what the numbers mean in practice.

The glass itself is a build-up, not one sheet. A typical walk-on unit has three parts:

  1. A laminated walking pane on top, made from two or three sheets of toughened, heat-soaked glass bonded with a stiff interlayer. This carries the load. If one sheet breaks, the others and the interlayer hold the pane in place.
  2. A sealed cavity filled with argon, which does the insulating work.
  3. An inner pane, usually laminated as well, so that nothing falls into the room below if the outer glass is ever struck hard.

That build-up makes walk-on glass much thicker than a standard rooflight. Overall thickness depends on the span and the load, and it grows as the pane gets longer in its shorter direction. The answer to how thick walk-on glass is gives the ranges, and the largest size for a walk-on rooflight explains why the short span, not the total area, sets the limit.

LayerJob it doesWhat to ask
Top laminateCarries people and furnitureNumber of plies, interlayer type
Surface finishGrip and privacySlip test result
CavityInsulationGas fill, warm edge spacer
Inner paneSafety overheadLaminated, not just toughened

Weight follows thickness. Glass weighs about 2.5 kg per square metre for every millimetre of thickness, so a thick walking unit is heavy enough that the opening, the bearers and the lifting plan all have to be worked out in advance. The answer on how heavy a walk-on rooflight is puts figures to common sizes. Weight is also why a vehicle rating is a separate engineering exercise: can you drive over a glass rooflight? covers that.

Grip underfoot and how the surface finish changes the light

The top of a walk-on pane has to be safe when wet, and whatever makes it grippy also changes the light that reaches the room. Choosing the surface is a light decision as much as a safety one.

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Clear, polished glass is slippery when it rains, and on an open terrace in the Cambridge climate it will be wet for much of the winter. So the walking surface is usually treated. The common finishes are a sandblasted or acid-etched pattern, a ceramic frit fired into the surface in dots or stripes, or a gritted coating. Each adds texture that a shoe can grip. Slip resistance is measured with a pendulum test, set out in BS 7976-2, and UK guidance generally treats a wet pendulum test value of 36 or more as low slip potential. When comparing products, ask for the wet figure, not the dry one. The detail sits in our guide to the slip resistance of walk-on glass.

Now look at the same finish from below. A clear pane lets you see the sky, the clouds and anyone standing on top. A fully sandblasted pane turns the rooflight into a glowing panel: the light is diffused and softer, the sun no longer throws a hard-edged bright shape on the floor, and nobody above can see into the room. A dotted frit sits between the two, with a partial view and a partly broken-up sun patch.

How we match the finish to the room:

  • Bathroom or bedroom below: a full obscure finish, for privacy and even light.
  • Kitchen or dining room below: a dotted frit or a border of obscure glass with a clearer centre, so there is some sky view and the terrace stays safe.
  • Stairwell or hall: often fully obscure, because the light is for moving through, not for looking out.
  • Glass where nobody treads, such as a pane surrounded by planters: it can stay clear, with a finish only on the walking route.

Privacy has more options than the walking surface alone. An interlayer can be made translucent, and some units offer switchable glass that turns from clear to opaque. Our guide to privacy finishes for walk-on glass weighs each one. Wear matters too: sand carried on shoes will mark any glass over time, and textured finishes hide fine marks better than polished ones. The answer on whether walk-on glass scratches covers that, and how to clean walk-on glass covers the textured surfaces, which need a brush rather than a squeegee.

Sun from directly overhead: glare and heat below

A pane set level with the ground looks straight up at the sky, so it catches the high summer sun at close to its strongest angle. The result below is a sharp, bright shape that travels across the floor and walls through the day.

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Cambridge sits at about 52 degrees north. At midday in late June the sun stands about 61 degrees above the horizon; at midday in late December it is only about 14 degrees up. For a pitched roof window on a south slope, the winter sun comes in almost square to the glass and the summer sun comes in at a slant. For horizontal glass the relationship flips: summer sun hits the pane nearly head on and pours straight down, while low winter sun grazes the glass and much of it reflects away. A walk-on rooflight is therefore strongest exactly when you least need extra heat.

Section through a Cambridge room with a south-facing roof window, showing how far the noon sun reaches at the winter solstice, the equinoxes and the summer solstice.14°38°61°SN52.2°N12345
Fig. The noon sun over a Cambridge roof (52.2°N) through the year, and how deep each season’s light reaches into the room.
  1. Winter solstice, about 14°. The lowest noon sun of the year travels furthest: it crosses the whole room and lands high on the back wall.
  2. Spring and autumn equinox, about 38°. The light lands on the floor, deep in the room.
  3. Summer solstice, about 61°. The highest, strongest sun drops steeply and lands close under the window.
  4. South-facing roof window. The same opening lets in a different patch of light every month.
  5. Deepest reach. In December the sun patch can be on the wall opposite, which is why we plan where it falls, not just how big the glass is.

What that looks like in a real room: take a pane about one metre by two, laid in a terrace over a kitchen. Around midday in June its sun patch lands on the floor a short way north of the opening, close to its own size and shape, and very bright. By late afternoon the patch has moved up the east wall. If the kitchen table or a worktop sits in that path, it will be in direct sun for a couple of hours at a time. If the television or a desk screen sits there, it will be unusable. None of this is visible on a drawing unless someone plots it, which is why the light plan places the opening before any joist is cut.

Three things control the heat and glare:

  • Position. Moving the opening half a metre can keep the summer patch off a worktop or a sofa. A long, narrow pane running east to west gives a patch that moves along its own length rather than across the room.
  • Glass. A solar control coating on the cavity face cuts the heat that gets through while keeping the light. An obscure walking surface diffuses the sun, so there is no hard shape on the floor, though the heat still arrives.
  • Depth of the reveal. A deep lined reveal below the glass cuts off the steepest rays and softens the edge of the light.

Our full guide to glare and pools of sunlight below walk-on glass walks through each orientation. The practical upshot is that walk-on glass should be planned with the room layout in hand, not the roof plan alone.

Forming the structural opening

Walk-on glass needs a level, square, stiff opening with support along its edges. Getting that opening right is most of the work, and it usually involves a structural engineer.

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Most flat roofs over Cambridge extensions are timber joists at 400 mm or so centres, with a deck, insulation and a membrane or paving on top. A walk-on rooflight wider than one joist bay means cutting joists and carrying their ends on new trimmers, with the load passed back to the walls or beams. The glass also needs the frame under it to deflect very little, because glass does not tolerate a sagging support. For those reasons, a structural engineer normally designs the trimming and checks the existing joists for the extra weight of the glass and the terrace finish. The answer on whether walk-on glass needs a structural engineer explains the cases where a manufacturer's standard detail is enough and the cases where a calculation is required.

Steel or concrete decks are a different case. On a concrete slab over a basement, the opening is formed with a cast upstand or a steel frame set into the slab, and the builder or engineer will want to know the exact glass size well before the slab is poured. On a steel-framed terrace, the glass often sits on an angle frame bolted to the steels.

What the opening has to provide:

  • Continuous bearing on all four edges, or on the edges the manufacturer specifies.
  • A level top, so the glass sits flat and flush with the finished surface around it.
  • Square corners within tight tolerances, since the glass arrives made to size.
  • Room for the insulation to wrap the upstand, so the kerb does not become a cold bridge.

Our guide to the structural opening for walk-on glass shows the common details for timber, steel and concrete. If you are adding walk-on glass to a roof that is already built, the answer on fitting a walk-on rooflight to an existing flat roof covers what has to be opened up and what can stay.

Section through a flat-roof rooflight: joists and trimmers, deck, insulation laid to falls, a kerb at least 150mm above the finished roof with the membrane dressed over it, the rooflight unit and a plastered reveal.150mm1:4012345678
Fig. Section through a flat-roof rooflight on a warm-deck roof, drawn at about 1:20.
  1. Joists, with doubled trimmers either side of the opening to carry the loads of the cut joists around it.
  2. Deck (usually 18mm ply or OSB) with a vapour control layer laid on it.
  3. Insulation boards above the deck (a warm roof), often tapered to give the roof its falls.
  4. Waterproof membrane dressed up the upstand and over its top, so the joint is lapped, not sealed.
  5. Upstand, or kerb: insulated timber, finishing at least 150mm above the finished roof surface to keep standing water and splash off the joint.
  6. Rooflight unit fixed over the kerb, its frame skirt shedding water outside the membrane turn-up.
  7. Plastered reveal lining the opening from the ceiling up to the frame, finished white to bounce the light down.
  8. Roof falls to an outlet: designed at about 1:40 so the finished roof never falls less than 1:80.

The opening is also where the light plan and the structure meet. If the ideal position for the light falls across a beam or a steel, the engineer and we agree between us whether to move the glass, split it into two panes, or re-route the load. That discussion happens on paper before the quote is fixed, so the price reflects the opening you will actually get.

Water, falls and the terrace build-up

A flush pane sits at the level where water lies. Keeping it watertight depends on the frame's upstand, the falls of the roof around it and a clear route for water to drain away beneath the finished surface.

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A standard flat rooflight sits on an upstand at least 150 mm above the finished roof, so rain runs off it and away. A walk-on unit has to be flush with the tiles or decking people walk on, which seems to contradict that rule. The answer is that the waterproofing and the walking surface are at different levels. The membrane runs across the roof deck and up the side of the rooflight kerb, finishing well below the top of the glass. The terrace finish, usually paving on adjustable pedestals or timber decking on bearers, then sits above the membrane with a gap under it. Rain falls on the paving, passes through the joints and runs across the membrane to the outlet. The glass sits at paving level, but its seal to the kerb is protected by the upstand beneath.

Falls still matter. Flat roofs are designed to a fall, commonly 1:40 at design stage so that the finished roof achieves at least 1:80 after settlement. Some walk-on units also want a slight fall on the glass itself so that water does not sit on the pane. Where the glass is fully flush with a level terrace, the maker's instructions set the minimum, and we follow them.

Courtyards and gardens need more thought, because soil, gravel and planting bring more water and debris. A channel drain alongside the glass, or a gravel border over a drained sub-base, keeps the surrounding ground from shedding onto the pane. The detail is covered in our guide to drainage around flush walk-on rooflights.

A snow load is less of an issue in Cambridge than in the hills, but a heavy fall does sit on flush glass. Heated glass is available for some units, mostly to clear condensation and light snow; the answer on whether walk-on glass can be heated sets out when it is worth considering.

Heat loss, condensation and the choice of glazing

A walk-on unit has to meet the same insulation rules as any rooflight, and its thick walking pane helps less than people expect. The cavity and the coatings do the insulating work.

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Approved Document L sets a limiting U-value of 2.2 W/m²K for rooflights in existing dwellings, assessed with the unit lying horizontal, and new walk-on units designed for homes can do much better than that. Horizontal glass loses heat faster than the same glass standing upright, because warm air sits against it and moves more, so a unit's horizontal figure is the one to compare. Our page on energy efficient rooflights explains how the glazing choices trade heat loss against solar gain.

The ways to get the figure down are a low-emissivity coating, argon in the cavity, a warm edge spacer and, where the structure can take the weight, a second cavity. Triple glazing adds another pane and more weight, and it is not always possible within a standard kerb depth. The answer on whether a walk-on rooflight can be triple glazed covers when it makes sense.

Room belowMain concernGlass leaning
KitchenSummer heat, steamSolar control, low-E
BathroomCondensation, privacyObscure, warm edge
Basement roomEnough lightClear or light frit
StairwellGlare on the stepsDiffused finish

Condensation forms on the inside of a rooflight when warm, moist air meets glass colder than its dew point. Better insulated glass keeps the inner face warmer, and a warm edge spacer keeps the edges from being the first place to fog. The frame and kerb also need to be insulated so there is no cold ring around the glass. In kitchens and bathrooms, extraction does as much as the glass. The detail is in our guide to the thermal performance of walk-on rooflights.

A walk-on rooflight can open, though it is a specialist unit. Hinged and sliding versions exist, usually driven by an electric actuator so the glass lifts clear of the surface, and they are used for access hatches to roof terraces as well as ventilation. The answer on whether a walk-on rooflight can open covers the options, and our electric and opening rooflight installation page explains the controls and rain sensors used on opening units generally.

Living with it: furniture, guarding and broken glass

Once a walk-on rooflight is in, it is part of a floor, and people will treat it as one. It helps to know what it will take and what the terrace around it needs.

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A pane designed to the domestic floor loads will carry people, a table and chairs. What it dislikes is a small, hard, concentrated point: a metal chair leg dragged across it, a heavy planter on narrow feet, a ladder foot. Felt pads under furniture and a mat or trolley under anything heavy protect the surface. The answer on putting furniture on a walk-on rooflight gives practical limits, and the general question can you walk on a rooflight? explains why an ordinary skylight must never be stood on.

Guarding rules depend on where the glass is, not on the glass itself. A walk-on rooflight flush with a terrace is designed as floor, so it does not need its own rail. The terrace does. Approved Document K calls for guarding at least 1,100 mm high at the edge of an external balcony or accessible roof, and the rail must not have gaps a child could climb or slip through. If a terrace is being formed at the same time as the glass goes in, the guarding is part of the Building Control work. The answer on whether a walk-on rooflight needs a guard rail covers the edge cases, such as glass at a change in level, and walk-on glass on a balcony covers cantilevered balconies.

If the glass cracks, the laminated build-up is designed to stay in place. The broken ply holds to the interlayer, and the other plies carry the load. The pane should be cordoned off and not walked on until it is replaced, but it will not drop into the room below. The answer on whether walk-on glass is safe if it cracks explains the post-breakage behaviour in plain terms.

Some small habits keep it looking right:

  • Sweep grit off the glass, since grit under a shoe is what scratches.
  • Clean with water and a mild detergent and a soft brush on textured finishes.
  • Keep planters and barbecues off the pane.
  • Check the drainage joints and outlets each autumn.

Planning permission and Building Control

A flush walk-on rooflight rarely raises a planning question on its own. The terrace it sits in often does, and the structural work behind it nearly always needs Building Regulations approval.

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In England, rooflights on a house are generally permitted development under Class C of the General Permitted Development Order, provided they project no more than 150 mm from the roof plane and do not rise above the highest part of the roof. A walk-on rooflight flush with a terrace projects nothing. Permitted development does not cover flats or maisonettes, and it can be removed by an Article 4 direction. Listed buildings always need listed building consent for this kind of work. Planning in the city and South Cambridgeshire is handled by Greater Cambridge Shared Planning, which publishes the conservation area boundaries.

The terrace is the part to check with care. Forming a roof terrace, balcony or raised platform on a house is not normally permitted development, because of overlooking, and on a terrace in Romsey or Mill Road the neighbours' gardens are very close. If the terrace needs permission, the walk-on glass is shown on the same drawings. The answer on whether a walk-on rooflight needs planning permission goes through the combinations. A permission can also come with conditions about obscure finishes where the glass would allow a view down into a neighbour's room, which brings us back to the surface finish.

Building Regulations are more straightforward. Cutting joists, adding a structural opening, fitting new glazing to an insulated roof and forming a terrace are all covered, including Part A (structure), Part K (guarding and safety) and Part L (energy). Where the work is notifiable, we handle the Building Control notification and arrange the inspections as part of the job, and the engineer's calculations form part of that submission. Party walls matter too: Approved Document B restricts rooflights close to a wall shared with next door, so on a terrace the glass normally sits back from the party wall line. The building regulations for walk-on rooflights guide sets out each part.

We never give a guarantee that permission will be granted, because only the council can decide that. What we can do is check the constraints on your address, draw the glass in a way that answers the obvious questions, and tell you plainly when a pre-application enquiry is worth the time.

Replacing an older walk-on unit or pavement light

Older walk-on glass tends to fail in a few recognisable ways: mist inside the sealed unit, a cloudy or delaminating walking pane, a surface worn smooth, or a load rating that no longer suits how the space is used. Each one points to a full replacement unit rather than new glass in an old frame.

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A misted cavity means the edge seal has failed and moisture has got in. The unit will not recover its insulation or clarity, and because the walking pane is bonded as part of the unit, it is replaced as a whole. Delamination shows as a milky edge or bubbles in the interlayer; it weakens the post-breakage safety that the laminate is there to provide. A worn finish that has lost its grip is a safety issue on a wet terrace. Our misted and failed rooflight replacement page covers these failure signs across all rooflight types.

Replacing the unit is also the moment to think again about the light. The old glass may have been specified before the room below was re-planned, so the patch of sun that used to hit the floor now lands on a new kitchen island. A replacement can bring a solar control coating, a different finish, or a slightly different size if the kerb allows, and each of those changes what happens in the room.

Pavement lights are a related case. They are small glass lenses or prisms set in a concrete or cast-iron grid, used over cellars and lightwells, and on older Cambridge properties they sometimes sit in a front area or a rear yard. They carry heavy loads but let through far less light, and the view through them is broken up by the grid. Swapping a pavement light for a walk-on rooflight gives much more daylight, though anything on or over the public highway needs the highway authority's agreement. The answer on whether a pavement light is the same as a walk-on rooflight compares the two.

A replacement usually reuses the existing opening where it is sound, level and the right size, which makes the job shorter. If the new unit is heavier because it carries a better glass build-up or a higher load rating, the engineer checks the bearers before we order.

What happens on installation day

By the day of fitting, the opening is formed, the glass has been made to measure and the lift has been planned. The day itself is about getting a heavy pane into place safely and sealing it properly.

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Walk-on glass is made to order once the opening is built and measured, so there is a gap of some weeks between forming the opening and fitting the glass. During that time the opening is weathered with a temporary cover, so the room below stays dry. The answer on how long walk-on rooflight installation takes sets out the full timeline from survey to finished ceiling.

On the day, in order:

  1. Access and protection. Scaffold or a tower where needed, protection laid inside over floors and worktops, and the lifting route checked. Heavier panes come up with a vacuum lifter, and on a tight terrace with no side access a small crane or a glass-handling robot may be needed. That is agreed in the quote, not decided on the day.
  2. Kerb check. The upstand is checked level and square, the membrane upstand is inspected, and the bedding tape or gaskets are laid to the maker's detail.
  3. Setting the glass. The pane is lowered onto its bearing and positioned so the gap around it is even. Nothing is forced.
  4. Sealing. The perimeter is sealed with the specified structural or weather silicone, and the cover trims or flashings are fitted.
  5. Terrace finish. The paving or decking is brought back up to the glass so the surface is flush, with open joints for drainage.
  6. Inside. The reveal below is lined, insulated, boarded and plastered, then left ready for decoration.

Every quote comes with a written light plan showing the position, size, glass and finish, and why each was chosen, and the price is set against that plan before any work begins. The installation carries our 10-year workmanship guarantee. For an idea of how walk-on glass compares with other rooflights on budget, our costs page sets out the factors that drive the price. For a pitched roof over the same house, see our roof window installation page, and for a raised glass centrepiece on a larger flat roof, our roof lantern installation page. Our skylight and rooflight installation in Cambridge overview shows the full range.

Questions people ask

These are the questions that come up when someone first thinks about glass they can stand on. Each links to a longer answer.

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Is a walk-on rooflight just a thicker skylight?

No. It is designed as a floor, with a laminated walking pane rated for people and furniture, a slip-resistant surface and a frame that sits flush with the terrace. An ordinary flat skylight has none of those and must not be stood on, even for a moment.

Will it make the room below too hot?

It can if the glass and position are wrong, because horizontal glass takes the summer sun almost head on. A solar control coating, an obscure or fritted finish, and placing the pane away from where people sit keep the room comfortable. The light plan shows where the sun patch will fall before anything is ordered.

Can people see into the room from the terrace?

With clear glass, yes. A sandblasted, etched or fritted finish, or a translucent interlayer, gives privacy while still letting light through. Over a bathroom or bedroom a fully obscure finish is usual.

How long does the glass last?

Well-made laminated units are built for a long service life, and the main things that shorten it are grit wearing the surface, blocked drainage around the frame and a failed edge seal. Keeping the glass swept and the joints clear protects it.

What do I need to do first?

Tell us what the room below is used for and where the light is needed. We look at the roof, the structure and the orientation, then come back with a written light plan and a price. You can book a light survey or message us on WhatsApp to start.

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